The vent is a straight run through the wall, so no elbows or changes in direction required, the plan is to try to match up the height as best I can to the new dryer height so I don't have to add elbows (I've had to add 2 elbows and a straight run to drop down to the existing vent connection, which pushes the washer/dryer out by 6-8 inches from the wall). The exterior is vinyl siding, so as suggested, I'll bust it apart and probably buy some more j-channel (I think that is what it is) to house the louvered vent kit I bought. Scott, thanks for the detailed explanation (I would have figured out all these details in good time, but its nice to know them up front so I'm actively thinking about them instead of figuring it out after I've moved a couple of steps too far). Wow, busy in here while I was away yesterday (I took advantage of 70 cm of sweet, champagne powder to get a day of snowboarding in - it took 4 hours to go what normally takes 2 1/2 hours, but it was well worth the trip). Steve, google "tuck tape" you will clearly see it is the proper tape. Sheathing tape is used on the house wrap, but not wall penetraions.
This is not to be confused with "sheathing tape" which is the same as the tuck tape mentioned above. It is used to flash the outside flange to the house.
The backing helps you get up and around tight spaces.įlashing tape, is actually a rubber adheasive back product. It comes in rolls that you will have to pull off a backing to use it. It also is not approved for the vb and doesn't stick very well compared to the proper tuck tape.įoil tape is the only tape to be used on any form of duct work. It is not a construction product!!! It cannot be used on the tube, as it will dry out in no time and fall off. It works best to use small pcs and work your way around.Īs for "duck tape" NEVER use this! It is useless on many levels. Just caulk around it.Īs for the vapour barrier, the only approved tape is "tuck tape", its a red thin tape that is very sticky! Use this to tape around the tube and to the vapour barrier on the interior. If brick, your only option, short of removing and rebricking is a regular vent hood.
VAPOR BARRIER TAPE TUCK TAPE INSTALL
If siding, I would suggest removing the needed sections, and install a flanged vent, then replace the siding, cutting as needed. You didn't mention what the exterior of your house was. You may get some condensation no matter what, That is why it is always recomended that the tube slope slightly to the outside. This is generally only used on longer runs through an attic. If it isn't insulated, they do sell a sock to go around the tube. John, if your wall cavity is insulated you use just a regular vent kit.
I assume Scott's reference to 'tuck tape' means duct tape I agree in principal with Scott but point out you need a better quality tape because duct tape rots out with time and is intended only to seal duct joints, not flash them.Ī side caveat - avoid corrugated "flex" aluminum because the friction of the links will clog it with stuck lint! If you have an unframed/open surface then you have to flash (tape) it as illustrated in first link. These kits have a fin on the outside which if caulked properly speak directly to your moisture issue. Your installation sounds like it might include angles or risers covered in this interesting piece.
VAPOR BARRIER TAPE TUCK TAPE FREE
Here's an interesting informational page of lots of variations in the venting installation, not knowing the details of yours - the point is that you would presumably be using a dryer kit that has an aluminum flap door on the outside under rain fall free hood, with 4" tube x 9 or 12" length (trim to length) to make it through any wall directly, and then metal ducting on the inside to it. Re: Sealing Dryer Vent to Vapour Barrier?
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